|
Recently, I went with a friend of my to see Steven Spielberg's new film
'Minority report'. The film talks about hidden files in the mind of
a psychic that the main character, Tom Cruise needs to clear his name
of a supposed crime that he is going to commit.
Soon after, I went with a teacher
friend to the Osaka museum of Japanese Minority Cultures. We were in
Osaka at the time for a Sumo tournament with a whole group of individuals
and after looking in the Lonely Planet guidebook, deicided that this
destination would be a good one to explore. Strangely enough, I wished
we had not.
We set out on the tube, which
in Osaka is relatively easy to follow. although you have to keep an
eye out for station names. We soon discovered that station names became
larger in Kanji and smaller in Romaji the further we went from the city
centre. We even went wrong twice and mistakenly took the wrong service
going back the way we had come.
The temperature on the train
also made us rather dozy which did not help our decision making. However,
after three changes we finally got to the stop that in our guidebook
stated was the nearest point to the museum. Great we thought, not far.
On the small map, supplied as part of the book it looked easy enough
to get to the museum.
However, when we got out of the
station and started to try and find out way, we quickly became disoriented.
Sometimes in Japan all the urban areas start to look the same and so
we went up and down the same road four or five times before finally
asking in a small, old wooden restaurant if they knew the way. They
had never heard of it and looked at us as if we were mad. Why go there
they asked? We want to see what it is we replied. We expected a large
museum, huge signposting to the museum and lots of interesting things
inside.
Finally we made a wrong turn
that ended up being a right turn which brought us right outside the
museum. A very modest town hall sized building with a very small entrance
fee of about 2000 yen I think.
The museum itself was brilliant.
I did not know for example that music in the Okinawan culture was such
an intrinsic part of its way of life. Ainu music I heard for the first
time, it was haunting and beautiful. For myself the most interesting
aspect was that which dealt with the Burakumin - that problem which
noboy dares mention. This group who are made peripheral to Japanese
society becuase of historical links to butchering or shoe making - all
those areas within society that Buddhism detested - still suffer today.
However, in my home town of Chizu in Tottori, my town hall representative
are fighting this racism and many a long meeting has tackled the subject.
I was surpised to see at the
museum a replica of a 'black book' one of the supposed books used by
Japanese companies to list Burakumin names, in an attempt to enable
companies to be able to screen out these people rather than employ them.
This practice is now long dead but I could not help feeling as I left
the museum that it was in a such an out of the way place on purpose.
What a shame as these cultures seem to have so much to offer and are
now beginning to make headway culturally in Japan, particularly Okinawan
music.
|